Kick-down may be a problem, and keeping your engine performance down.
With the engine not running, check that the throttles are fully open when the foot is flat to the floor.
Ask somebody to sit in the driver's seat and depress the accelerator to the floor while you look down the carby with the air filter assy. removed and the choke open.
If the throttle blades are not vertical, the throttles are not fully open.
If this is the case, the engine can never perform to its intended level.
To rectify this, remove the adjustable rod to the carby at the firewall end by taking out the clip, and allow the lever on the firewall to take up its natural position.
Adjust the rod by screwing into the plastic end until the 'L' shape at the firewall end slides comfortably into the bush in the lever at the firewall.
Replace the clip.
Another check should confirm that the throttles are fully open when the accelerator pedal is pushed to the floor.
Then the kickdown cable must be adjusted.
Remove the clip holding the cable to the short arm on the Accelerator cross shaft.
Adjust the cable so that the 'L' shaped end just slides into the hole on the lever, preferably so that the top of the cable 'L' just touches the top of the hole.
That is to allow the kickdown in the gearbox the .005" clearance it should have but you can't ascertain because the pan is on the box (and you don't want to take it off).
This completes the throttle/kickdown cable adjustment, and it should not need to be reset unless the idle speed screw on the carby is reset for any reason.
Test drive, and if the kickdown is not satisfactory for overtaking purposes, the problem lies in the power that the engine is not producing, and not in the kickdown adjustment.
That's where we come to ignition, and ignition timing.
